So You'd Love a Vintage 501s
my guide to find them and love them
For a better reading experience (and better quality of the pictures), you can view this post on the Substack app or in your web browser.
Vintage denim, a love story
I had no idea how to shop for vintage 501 until
told me, about a year ago: know your waist measurements, and ask the seller for the measurements. 7 pairs later… here I am sharing with you what I learned along the way.Every time I wear my 501s, I feel I’m embedding my story into the story of the jeans themselves. I will always pack at least one pair wherever I go, and sometimes even make them my ultimate airport outfit.
The more you wear them, the more you love them, the more comfortable they get. And they are not the most expensive denim jeans on the market (by far!).
I’ll share with you how I found those:
Oh, Pinterest! In my idle time, I created a Pinterest board right here with 365 images of DENIM inspiration. It’s good to have to soothe a shopping itch. I know there is at least one inspiration for you in there. I know you already have what it takes to create one look that will make you feel fabulous in a pair of denim jeans.
One thought I had when I took the pictures you’re about to see: “Wtf am I doing this?”.
Multiple choices here:
a. the sense of connection I know it can create when we talk about something as mundane as a pair of denim jeans
b. the stories that can be embedded in the clothes we wear
c. the sweet memory of someone you love that also loves denim (forward them this email)
Every time I hit publish on Susbtack, trust that I hope it brings us closer together — and we don’t have to agree on everything.
Links to open in a new tab
from ‘5 things you should buy’ asking “What is the Levi’s 501 secret sauce?”The Denim Queen on Substack and beyond: Jane on Jeans (5€/month)
“How to shop for Levi’s 501 vintage jeans” by Neelam Ahooja on Youtube (a comprehensive 13 minutes video where you’ll learn a ton!)
Vintage Levi’s 501
The fit is flattering on every size. This is a button fly, straight leg, mid-rise fit. I think some of the ‘butt magic’ comes from the fact that the back panel of fabric on a 501 is cut wider than the front panel. That means that the fabric from the back panel wraps around your rear to give it a hug & lift. The waistline of the 501 also takes a flattering dive down from back to front nipping the waist at just the right angle & giving you curves all around.
What size are you wearing?
I can actually wear 3 different sizes (W26, W27, W28) for different fit, see here:
When I measure at my waist, I’m a 66cm, that’s 26”, but in modern contemporary trousers, I’m wearing a 24 (COS, Toteme) or 25 (Arket). Confusing, right?
For vintage 501, all you need to do is ask for measurements of the waistband before buying, and compare this to your go-to pair of denim jeans.
As you can see, I have vintage 501 in W26, W27 and W28. The W26 are more my “standing up jeans”, quitted fitted, and the W28 are super relaxed, my “sitting down” denim jeans, super relaxed, the ones I would actually wear to travel!
So don’t be afraid of the number, and try two or three different sizes!
Where do you source your vintage 501s from?
The first pair I got (the washed black) was given to me. The other six pairs I sourced from the German app and website kleinanzeigen. I usually am lucky, I go in and search “Levis 501 + size (26 or 27 or 28)”. Even better if it’s Made in USA. It has to be 1990s for me! The prices are really good, I’d usually pay between 35 and 75€ max. including insured shipping, for a pair of vintage 501 via this platform.
I went to this shop in Paris, called Less Is More (22 rue des Vinaigriers), fully dedicated to vintage denim, and the staff is there to help you find “the one”, but it will be pricier than if you go on a platform like kleinanzeigen.
I have never bought from Etsy or Instagram vintage denim account, but I have seen higher prices there as well! If you have any recommendation for the community:
How do you know the year of production?
Look at the inside care label, or ask the seller for a picture.
Can you see the 0696 on the bottom line? It stands for June 1996. I know, so cool, right?
The red tab ®
A red tab without the levi’s doesn’t mean you got fooled. It means you got a pair from a special batch! In order to have the patent on the red tab, and not only the red tab with the word levi’s on it, the company produced some batches with a blank red tab (you still have the ® though!).
Pick Your Lover
Some pictures with references so that you don’t have to take hectic screenshots of my instagram reel:
501 washed black made in USA W28
It the one pair that has been given to me maybe 8 years ago. The perfect washed black. Vintage 501 in this wash are harder to find. It’s a keeper, even though it’s 1 or 2cm shorter than I’d like it to be. It’s good for Spring days with ballet flats.
501 washed blue 1997 W26
Would I wear them even more if they were at my perfect magic length? Yes! Something like where it hits at the ankle (see my left leg). Even though the extra fabric at the bottom temporarily gives an impression of “longer leg”, it’s also adding weight to it… So it’s due to go to the seamstress, I’m just figuring out the magic length and trying them on with different shoes to make sure I’ll get many wear out of it.
501 for women washed light blue made in USA 1996 W27
I bought it cropped, and the light wash + the crop make it a perfect summer denim. It’s the 501 for women, I could imagine this fit has a slightly wider waist… for women? Not sure. I bought them from a Hamburg seller who has a huge collection of vintage denim because her father used to have a denim shop 20 years ago. If you’re in Germany, check out her profile here and this pair of 501 for Women made in the UK if you’re a 1/2 waist 34 cm!
501 washed blue made in USA 1996 W28
My favorite pair. Also got if from the same seller in Hamburg. I’m wearing them right now and playing with the length to see if I could shorten them to my magic length. They are so soft, my go-to working from home denim.
501 white made in USA 1998 W28
My latest addition. Followed my intuition and went for it! Here, I’m playing with the length, I think I’d like to have them hemmed like this:
501 sand beige made in USA 1996 W26
They came brand new with all the tags. I love the buttery beige, so perfect for Spring. My mistake; I took them to the seamstress, and I didn’t know about the European hem to preserve the original border. I wish I knew about it earlier!!! They work fine anyway, because they are a W26, they are more a “standing up” denim for me, not really the ones I’d wear all day working from home.
501 white 1996 W27
A no brainer. I could always have more white denim. They are more fitted than the W28 you've seen above, and a bit stiffer.
How to style your vintage 501?
My favorite way: a white t-shirt, or a white- shirt with nice leather shoes (ballet flats, or heeled ankle boots, or flat sandals).
Check out the Pinterest ‘DENIM’ board for more ideas.
Daily style inspiration?
Instagram! I see vintage 501 well styled for a contemporary and feminine yet powerful projection here:
Anouk Yve anoukyve
the twins Cecilie & Amalie ceciliemoosgaard amaliemoosgaard
Claire Rose clairerose
Three tips
Know your measurements, ask the seller!
Find your magic length, and get ‘em hemmed! Ask the seamstress for a ‘European /original hem’ (source), where they take the original piece from the bottom, cut it off, and re-attach it to my desired ‘magic length’ '(see this video if you are a DIY person).
Label and tab. Ask for a picture of the inner care label. You will see the exact year of production there. And where it’s from. I love to find a Made in U.S.A. pair of jeans (before 2002). If your red tab is blank and doesn’t say Levi’s, it’s because the pair was part of a ‘blank batch’, something Levi’s had to do to protect the patent on the red tab. I think it’s quite cool.
Bonus: I haven’t seen anyone not looking good in a pair of 501s. I find them very flattering and comfortable. It’s only a matter of finding the right size, alter it to the right ‘magic’ length, and the right wash for you.
The next Light Letter will be sent to Paid Subscribers on Sunday at 8 am CET.
I’m planning a first Community Live Chat for the Equinox next week, open to all Paid Subscribers! Upgrade your plan and cancel anytime (7€ monthly):
Q&A in the comments section:
Infinite blessings,
Ardas Chandra
Love how much expertise you’ve gained since I’ve introduced you to the vintage Levi’s 501 addiction 🤗
Great writing piece!